The Most Iconic Watches of Each Brand
- By Kirsty I
- 19 Nov 2024
Every watch brand has its own "unicorn" watch—a model that defines the brand, skyrockets it to fame, and becomes a staple for enthusiasts around the world. For Rolex, it’s the Submariner; for Omega, the Speedmaster. These iconic pieces don’t just sell well; they bring other collections along for the ride and help shape the brand's identity. We’re diving into some of these legendary timepieces, exploring what makes each one a true icon. Ready? Let’s get into it!
Oris: The Diver 65 - Honouring Vintage Dive Heritage
When you think of Oris and their dive watches, the Aquis might spring to mind. It’s a powerhouse, no doubt, but it’s not actually Oris's most iconic model. That title goes to the Oris Diver Sixty-Five. This retro-inspired dive watch brings the spirit of Oris's first-ever dive watch, the Oris Waterproof, straight into the modern era.
Founded in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein (where they're still based today), Oris launched the Waterproof in 1965—a rugged, vintage-style dive watch that’s stood the test of time. It’s everything you’d want in a vintage piece: domed glass, slim profile, and that classic dive watch aesthetic. The Diver 65, which debuted as a reissue in 2015, captures these vibes perfectly, offering a range of modern materials and designs, including playful bronze models and eye-catching “cotton candy” hues.
The Diver 65 is vintage Oris through and through, and it’s a clear reminder of the brand’s dive watch heritage. It’s proof that Oris knows how to keep things fresh without losing its roots, and for that, it’s earned its spot as the brand’s true icon.
40 x 12.8mm stainless steel case with a ceramic bezel, 48mm lug to lug, Oris calibre 733-1 automatic movement, strap options include a stainless steel bracelet
Panerai: Luminor - Big, Bold, and Built for Action
Panerai has a well-earned reputation for creating big, bold watches, and it’s one of the few brands that truly owns this oversized aesthetic. When we talk about iconic Panerai models, two names come to mind: the Luminor and the Radiomir. But the Panerai Luminor Marina, with its signature crown guard, is in a league of its own.
In the 1930s, Panerai was producing rugged watches for the Italian Royal Navy. By 1949, the Luminor was born—a beefed-up, no-nonsense diver's watch with a bold design and, yes, that famous crown-lock guard. The Luminor didn’t just look tough; it was designed to withstand the toughest missions. It stayed exclusive to the military until 1993, when Panerai finally released it to the public.
The Luminor is Panerai at its best: big, purposeful, and unapologetically bold. It’s the watch that made Panerai a household name and inspired a cult following of fans who appreciate a timepiece with serious presence.
40 x 13mm stainless steel case, 48mm lug to lug, P.900 calibre automatic movement, strap options include an alligator leather strap.
IWC: Ingenieur - An Icon with a Legendary Design
IWC is known for their Pilot’s watches, and for good reason—they’re beloved by aviators and watch fans alike. But when it comes to design impact, the IWC Ingenieur steals the spotlight. This rugged model was redesigned by none other than Gérald Genta in 1976, and his influence on the Ingenieur SL Ref. 1832 turned it into a timeless masterpiece.
The Ingenieur was initially launched in the 1950s, engineered for scientists and engineers who needed an antimagnetic watch. Genta's redesign in the '70s brought his signature integrated bracelet and angular case, catapulting the Ingenieur into a league of its own. Today, it's a classic that speaks to the enduring appeal of vintage-inspired designs, blending functionality with bold aesthetics.
The Ingenieur may not be the first watch that comes to mind when you think of IWC, but it’s a design-forward icon with a rich history that can’t be overlooked.
40 x 10.7mm stainless steel case, 45.7mm lug to lug, IWC calibre 32111 automatic movement, strap options include a stainless steel bracelet.
Blancpain: Fifty Fathoms - The Original Dive Watch
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms isn’t just another dive watch; it’s the dive watch—the first to set the standard for modern dive timepieces. Introduced in 1953, it was the result of a collaboration with the French Navy, who needed a robust, water-resistant watch for underwater missions. Blancpain delivered, and the Fifty Fathoms was born.
This watch featured many firsts: a unidirectional rotating bezel, water resistance to 50 fathoms (about 91 meters), and a clean, legible dial. Today, the Fifty Fathoms line has expanded, but it remains a beloved icon. For anyone serious about diving or watch history, this is a piece that can’t be ignored.
Blancpain may not be as widely known as Rolex or Omega, but among enthusiasts, the Fifty Fathoms is the ultimate dive watch icon—a true testament to the brand’s innovation and dedication to quality.
45 x 15.4mm stainless steel case, 50mm lug to lug, Blancpain calibre 1315 automatic movement, Strap options include a sail-canvas fabric strap.
TAG Heuer: Monaco - Racing's Square Legend
Few watches are as instantly recognisable as the Tag Heuer Monaco. This square-cased icon, launched in 1969, defied the conventions of round watches and quickly made waves. Its innovative design, water resistance, and legendary Calibre 11 automatic movement set it apart from anything else at the time.
But what really put the Monaco on the map was its association with the “King of Cool” himself, Steve McQueen, who wore it in the 1971 film Le Mans. This Hollywood connection, along with Tag Heuer’s motorsport heritage, cemented the Monaco’s status as an icon.
To this day, the Tag Heuer Monaco remains one of the brand’s most sought-after models, embodying the spirit of racing and the thrill of taking design risks.
39 x 14.3mm stainless steel case, 47mm lug to lug, Tag Heuer calibre 11 automatic movement, Strap options include a calfskin leather strap.
Tudor: Black Bay Monochrome - The New Classic with Old Roots
Tudor’s Black Bay line has become its flagship, but the connection to Tudor’s first dive watches is what makes it truly iconic. Launched in 2012, the Tudor Black Bay Monochrome brought the brand's heritage into the spotlight with a modern, stylish twist.
Tudor’s history is deeply tied to Rolex (both brands were founded by Hans Wilsdorf), and the original Tudor Submariner shared many design elements with Rolex’s Submariner. Today’s Black Bay models borrow that same DNA while establishing their own unique identity, with bold colours, vintage-inspired dials, and Tudor’s in-house movements.
The Black Bay Monochrome might be a modern icon, but it carries the weight of Tudor’s diving heritage, making it a go-to choice for fans who want a connection to the brand’s storied past.
41 x 13.6mm stainless steel case, 48.5mm lug to lug, Calibre MT5602-U self-winding mechanical movement, strap options include a stainless steel bracelet and rubber strap.
Omega: Speedmaster - The Moon Watch
Choosing the most iconic Omega watch is tough, but the legacy of the Omega Speedmaster and its involvement in the journey to the moon makes it the clear winner. First introduced in 1957 as a racing chronograph, the Omega Speedmaster found its true calling when NASA selected it for the Apollo missions after conducting rigorous testing. This led the Speedmaster to become the first watch worn on the Moon during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969.
The Speedmaster is more than just a chronograph; it’s a piece of history. It’s elegant, functional, and has been part of some of humanity’s greatest achievements. For those reasons, it stands as Omega’s most iconic watch.
42 x 13.2mm stainless steel case, 47.5mm lug to lug, Omega 3861 manual-winding movement. Features Sapphire Crystal Glass. Strap options include stainless steel bracelet, rubber strap, leather strap, or fabric strap.
Hamilton: Khaki Field - The Military Legend
Hamilton’s Khaki Field isn’t just a watch; it’s a symbol of military history. This rugged, no-nonsense field watch was originally supplied to soldiers in World War II, and it embodies the spirit of durability and practicality. Its classic design, with large numerals and a tough case, has made it a favourite for anyone looking for a reliable tool watch.
While Hamilton’s Khaki Field might not be as flashy as some other icons, it’s a legend in its own right. It’s a true field watch that connects us to a bygone era, proving that sometimes simplicity is the ultimate form of sophistication.
38 x 9.5mm stainless steel case, 47mm lug to lug, Hamilton H-50 manual-winding movement, strap options include a stainless steel bracelet, nato strap, or leather strap.
These are just a few of the legendary pieces that define some of the biggest names in the watch industry. Each one tells a story of innovation, design, and cultural impact that keeps them at the top of every watch enthusiast's list.
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