IWC Schaffhausen Watch Buyer's Guide

  • 29 Apr 2024
IWC Schaffhausen Watch Buyer's Guide

Longines is renowned in the luxury watch industry for excellent timepiece accuracy and high-quality craftsmanship. Here's what you should know before you buy.

A brief history of Longines Watches

Derived from the Swiss Les Longines meaning long meadows, Longines pays homage to the first factory site built in Switzerland in 1867 to manufacture the luxury watches we know today.

The Longines brand started in 1832 when Auguste Agassiz and his two partners established the Saint-Imier establishment to make and sell pocket watches. After becoming head of the company and the watches finding success in the United States, Agassiz took on his nephew, Ernest Francillon, to run the company. Here, Francillon worked on ways to improve the manufacturing methods in watchmaking. 

While under Agassiz, the brand used common procedures used in watchmaking whereby watchmakers would work at home and supply their products to the trading offices. However, Francillon wondered about how the industrial revolution would impact the manufacturing process so he decided to take all the different stages of watchmaking and bring them all under one roof. 

To achieve this, Francillon bought two adjoining pieces of land in 1866 and built his factory which was completed a year later. The factory was built on the bank of the River Suze, known locally as Les Longines', meaning long meadows, and so Francillon adopted this name for his factory. 

Francillon then took on Jacques David who helped develop the machines required for perfecting watch manufacturing. Because of his innovation and industrial thinking, Francillion continually expanded the factory until the early 20th Century. 

The research into technology at Longines rewarded them with various prizes, the first of which was awarded at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867 for its first pocket watch product - the 20A. Throughout the brand's history, technical research has allowed Longines to produce high-precision timekeeping and quality manufacturing.  

Due to its precise timekeeping reputation, Longines is the official timekeeper in many sports, including equestrian, horse-racing, Formula 1, alpine skiing competitions and gymnastic competitions. To this day, Longines continues to be a reliable and precise timekeeping brand, not only for sports but for all the masses.

Who owns the Longines brand today?

Longines has been a subsidiary of the Swiss Swatch Group, formerly Socit Suisse de Microlectronique et d'Horlogerie (SMH), since 1983. Founded by Nicholas G Hayek, the Swiss Swatch Group is the world watchmaking leader, with other brands such as ETA, Omega, Harry Winston, Hamilton and more under the company. 

The current president of Longines is Matthias Breschan who has previously worked for the Swatch Group sister brands, Hamilton and Rado, for a number of years.

Where are Longines items produced now?

Longines watches are still being made in Switzerland, St-Imier, where they were first produced and have remained there since. They are the only watchmaker to have stayed in their original hometown to this day.

What is in the Longines range?

Longines continues to produce one of the most precise timekeeping watches in the world, but their range also includes sunglasses and straps for watches. The Longines tradition of keeping to quality is evident with their ability to provide original straps for watches so you can keep the authentic look of your watch or you can customise it to your preference. 

In 2019, Longines began designing, producing and distributing the new optical and sun eyewear range for men and women. This new range embodies the brand's aesthetic and technological know-how to provide exquisite products. The optical and sunglasses range was developed in compliance with the strictest quality requirements and meticulous attention to detail, much like the production of its watches.

Where can I buy Longines products?

Longines products are widely available both online and in-store“ thanks to the company's selected network of retailers. You can find approved retailers in your country that sell authentic Longines products on their websites. Select countries can also purchase from Longines' online stores. At Chisholm Hunter, we stock a wide range of official Longines products including the high-performance HydroConquest for professional divers; the exquisite La Grande Classique collection; the classically authentic Master collection and the impeccable design of the Spirit watches.

How much do Longines products cost?

As with any luxury watch line, prices are on the higher end however, in relation to the rest of the watch industry, Longine places itself as a more attainable and affordable luxury brand compared to its pricier competitors. 

Many high street retailers will have Longines products starting from around the £600 mark for the Conquest or La Grande Classique collections and up to several thousands of pounds for collections with more advanced technology and design. 

The technical precision and high-quality build of Longines watches coupled with its devotion to tradition and research have helped place the company as the successful luxury brand it is today.

How can I tell if a Longines product is genuine?

Many Longines watches have very small numbers and markings printed on the dial below the number 6. These small markings show the movement number and plate number, which you'll need a magnifying glass to see. Counterfeit Longines watches usually don't have these markings but the ones that do are often done improperly, with defects and have more scratches on the dial surface.   

Another way to find out if your Longines watch is genuine is to check the back of the watch case. A genuine Longines watch will be engraved with the watch brand name, the name of the country the watch was manufactured in and special trademark patterns for the watch brand. An authentic Longines watch case is fine and exquisite with a high finish and consistent assembly. A counterfeit watch will have a rough and imprecise watch case. Usually, letters are engraved on the open position of the case to show the amount of gold plating but counterfeit products will not have this mark. You can also check for the authenticity of your watch by going directly to Longines. Since 1867, Longines has kept a record of every single serial number of its watches so you can receive detailed information about your watch and a certificate of authenticity if it is genuine. Longines serial numbers are found engraved on the back of the watch case and are 5 to 8 digits long. In some cases, the serial number may be found on the movement or inside the watch so you may have to remove the case to see it.

Where can I get my Longines watch appraised?

If you'd like to get an appraisal of your Longines products then look for a local jeweller or watchmaker who offers a valuation service.

Older pieces that are in excellent condition will hold their value the best and holding on to pieces that have complicated mechanical workings will give you the highest resale price.

How do I wear my Longines watch?

The beauty of the Longines collection is that a single watch is enough to lift any outfit.  Each of the Longines collections will match the occasion, day and outfit. For formal events, many of the Longines collections provide the simple, minimalistic and elegant watch you need to match your outfit. 

For casual wearing, you can wear a watch from any of the collections and match it to your outfit, ensuring your arms have the right amount of luxury with elegant dials, gold or silver accents and a classic strap to elevate your look.

How to clean a Longines watch?

Longines watches have been designed to be durable but once in a while, they can require some cleaning to maintain their sharp and elegant look. It's recommended to use a toothbrush and soapy water to clean the metal bracelets and waterproof casings. Then, rinse with clean water and dry with a soft cloth. Your Longines watch should be looking as good as new.


Think a Longines watch could be for you? Take a look at their collection here today.

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STORY

Creator of one of the first wrist watches, IWC Schaffhausen has been a dominant player within the world of luxury watches since the late 1800’s. Moving on to reveal incredible aviation watches and sport watches, IWC is a truly mystifying brand with an even more inviting history. Below, I take you on the long, thrilling journey of IWC Schaffhausen, discussing their collections and answering all of your questions. Let’s dive in!  

A Brief History of IWC Watches

Explore the captivating history of IWC Watches, a journey that began in 1868 in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. Founded by Boston's horology visionary, Florentine Ariosto Jones, IWC was originally the International Watch Company. The company began as a humble pocket watch manufacturer, using hydropower from the River Rhine to operate.  
 
The brand was well on their way to becoming one of the most incredible watchmakers in the world when they released one of the first wristwatches in the world, a ladies watch with a delicate bracelet and refined design.  
 
IWC Schaffhausen is now renowned for pioneering the field of aviation watches, IWC's legacy includes the iconic Big Pilot's Watch, first introduced in the 1940s for navigators and pilots. This heritage of innovation and precision continues to inspire our timepieces today, combining tradition with cutting-edge technology. 

Following Watchmaking Traditions 

Attesting to a long legacy of innovation and ingenuity, IWC Schaffhausen engineers embrace the uniqueness of IWC and push the boundaries of watchmaking brilliance. With four generations of horology experts, the brand has excelled in making their traditions that can be seen in every single IWC Schaffhausen watch.  

IWC Big Pilots Mens WatchIWC Big Pilots Mens Watch

The Collections

The International Watchmaking Company (IWC) has been in the industry for an incredible four generations, giving them a long, detailed history of expertise, experience, and knowledge.  
 

Below, I take you on a deep dive of each IWC Schaffhausen collection, showing off some of my favourite pieces. IWC still produces its watches in Switzerland, where the factory is sandwiched between the Rhine river and the old town. In 2018, the company’s newly renovated factory was revealed to make better room for growth and create more space for its machines and facilities.

IWC Pilot's Collection

The flagship collection, IWC Pilot, is renowned as one of the world's most famous and trustworthy pilot watches. Conceived during the 1930s and 40s, these timepieces were instrumental in establishing the fundamental characteristics of aviation watches, both for civilian use and for the military. 


From the legendary Big Pilot's Watch, with its distinctive oversized crown and exceptional legibility, to the stylish Pilot's Chronograph, each watch in the collection embodies the spirit of adventure and technical mastery.  
 
The IWC Big Pilot’s Racing Works Automatic is a magnificent timepiece that help put IWC on the aviation map. The large 46.2mm dial paired with enlarged numeral and hands allows pilots to see clearly at extreme altitudes while the enlarged crown makes movement easy with pilot's gloves. A simple rule to follow is that if an IWC watch features this crown design, it is classified as a Big Pilot’s watch; lacking this design, it is a standard Pilot’s watch. 

IWC Portofino Collection

The IWC Portofino Collection captures the essence of understated elegance and timeless sophistication. Inspired by the picturesque Italian village of Portofino, known for its charm and luxury, these watches blend classic design with modern craftsmanship.  
 
Featuring a range of timepiece models, from simple three-hand watches to sophisticated complications like moon phases and chronographs. Each IWC Portinfino watch combines refined simplicity with clean designs.  
 
Sporting a vintage design, the IWC Portofino Chronograph is reminiscent of the original model. A sleek 39mm dial with a robust stainless-steel case, complete with a luxurious alligator strap. The matt white dial, paired with deep blue hands embodies the power of the Mediterranean.  
 
Whether you appreciate the allure of a classic dress watch or desire a versatile timepiece that effortlessly complements any ensemble, the IWC Portofino Collection offers a compelling selection of watches that embody elegance and sophistication in every detail.  

IWC Portugieser Collection

When the public asks, IWC delivers. The IWC Portugieser was first released in the 1930’s when two sophisticated gentlemen requested a wristwatch with a pocket watch movement.  
 
Inspired by Portuguese navigators, these watches combine classic elegance with innovative design. These watches have a unique design that is seen throughout the IWC line.  
 
Carrying the torch is the IWC Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night. An inspiring timepiece with a unique tourbillon movement that counteracts the effort of Earth's gravity on the isochronal properties of the balance wheel. AKA makes the watch more accurate and significantly elevates performance. 

IWC Aquatimer Collection

IWC's sports watch models epitomise rugged sophistication and high-performance functionality.  
 
The IWC Aquatimer collection boasts water-resistant designs suitable for professional divers, featuring advanced features like rotating bezels and luminescent displays for optimal underwater visibility.  
 
The IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Galapagos Islands' is a stunning adventure watch. Drawing on 50 years of experience, this professional diving watches has been a steady constant for the depths. An automatic self-winding movement, paired with 300m water resistance makes this watch a diving necessity.  

IWC Top Gun Collection

IWC Schaffhausen have been proud aviation watches for over a century, making it no surprise that they are the sole suppliers of timepieces to the US Navy and US Marine Corps.  
 
The IWC Top Gun Edition began in 2007, with IWC being the only company permitted to use the Top Gun logo on their creations. With the signature enlarged numerals, enlarged hands, and the iconic Top Gun logo engraved on the case back, this IWC collection is a collector's dream.  
 
The IWC Pilot’s Top Gun Oceana Chronograph is a unique display of style and unforgettable craftsmanship. Featuring all the signature IWC Top Gun traits encompassed in a navy-blue case and matching blue synthetic strap.  
 

iwc aquatimer watch engraved case back iwc aquatimer watch engraved case back

IWC In-house Movements

Creators of one of the first ladies watches and with over 140 years of watchmaking experience, IWC Schaffhausen have designed, manufactured, and released some of the most incredible movements to the world.  

IWC Calibre 69

Taking 8 years to perfect, the IWC Calibre 69 was released along with the iconic IWC Portugieser Chronograph.  
 
This chronograph is a spectacular display of IWC artisanry as each element is individually crafted before being put to the test.  

IWC Perpetual Calendar 42

A perpetual calendar is one of the most difficult movements within the watchmaking industry. Having the day, date, and month all displaying accurately without the need for adjustment at the end of the month.  
 
Using the Pellaton winding system, IWC completely redesigned a classic watch.  

 

IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Day & Night WatchIWC Portugieser Tourbillon Day & Night Watch

Frequently Asked Questions

Where are IWC watches produced now?

IWC watches are produced in the humble river town of Schaffhausen, Switzerland. Located on the north side of the High Rhine, this river is monumental in the growth of IWC Schaffhausen.

How much do IWC products cost?

As with any luxury watch line, the prices of IWC are on the pricier end with the cheapest watch costing over $4,000 and the most expensive costing you over $700,000. 

Many high street retailers will have IWC watches starting from around the £3,500 mark for the Pilot’s Watches and over £35,000 for collections with more advanced technology and design, such as the Portugieser. 

With a strong commitment to using the best materials, exquisite design, technology and expertise, IWC watches have firmly established themselves as luxury watchmakers for over 150 years.

IWC Top Gun Oceana Watch IWC Top Gun Oceana Watch

How can I tell if an IWC product is genuine?

When checking the authenticity of an IWC watch, it’s best to start with the dial. Genuine IWC watches have placements for the subdials and hands that align perfectly with the dial. The subdials should also be symmetrical.  On fake products, the subdials are either too far or too close to the centre and are unsymmetrical. 

Genuine IWC watches use a sapphire crystal over the dial which gives them scratch-resistant properties. To test the crystal, place a drop of water on the dial surface. If the watch is genuine, the water will retain surface tension but if it’s a fake, the water will disperse. 

Checking the watch’s crown, or the winding stem at the 3 o’clock position, will help you identify the authenticity of the watch. IWC watches have a relatively smaller crown compared to other watch brands. Counterfeit watches will have a larger crown. 
Check the authenticity of your watch by getting an authorised IWC retailer or Boutique to send it directly to IWC headquarters. Upon receiving the watch, IWC can refute or confirm the authenticity of the watch. If it is genuine, you will receive a certification of authenticity alongside information about the case, movement and any special features.

Where can I get my IWC watch appraised?

When checking the authenticity of an IWC watch, it’s best to start with the dial. Genuine IWC watches have placements for the subdials and hands that align perfectly with the dial. The subdials should also be symmetrical.  On fake products, the subdials are either too far or too close to the centre and are unsymmetrical. 

Genuine IWC watches use a sapphire crystal over the dial which gives them scratch-resistant properties. To test the crystal, place a drop of water on the dial surface. If the watch is genuine, the water will retain surface tension but if it’s a fake, the water will disperse. 

Checking the watch’s crown, or the winding stem at the 3 o’clock position, will help you identify the authenticity of the watch. IWC watches have a relatively smaller crown compared to other watch brands. Counterfeit watches will have a larger crown. 
Check the authenticity of your watch by getting an authorised IWC retailer or Boutique to send it directly to IWC headquarters. Upon receiving the watch, IWC can refute or confirm the authenticity of the watch. If it is genuine, you will receive a certification of authenticity alongside information about the case, movement and any special features.

How do I wear my IWC watch?

The beauty of IWC is that a watch from any of the collections can bring a sense of luxury to your look.  Each of the IWC collections will match the occasion, day and outfit.
For formal events, match the main colours of our outfit with the dial colours, e.g. wearing this blue dial Pilot’s watch with a blue suit. Utilise your watch as a statement piece by wearing a contrasting colour watch to your outfit, e.g. wearing a silver-plated, white dial Portgieser Watch with a black tux.

How to clean my IWC watch?

IWC watches have been designed to look exquisite but once in a while, they can require some cleaning to maintain their sharp and elegant look.

It’s recommended to use a microfibre cloth to wipe the dial surface, going around the case, lugs, crown and even the back of the watch. Dip the microfibre cloth into some water and clean the dial, but make sure to avoid the straps.  Avoid using soap and water as some of the molecules can enter the watch and damage the mechanism.

IWC Portofino  WatchIWC Portofino  Watch

Think an IWC Schaffhausen watch could be for you? Take a look at our collection today.

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