Blancpain Watches Buyer's Guide

  • 11 Jul 2024
Blancpain air command flyback chronograph automatic

Blancpain holds the title of the world's oldest surviving watch brand“and with over two centuries of heritage in the world of watchmaking, it's no surprise to learn that Blancpain combines the best of yesterday with tomorrow's innovations. Tradition, heritage and some seriously covetable watches“here's everything you need to know about making a Blancpain watch purchase. 

History of Blancpain

Blancpain was named after its founder Jehan-Jacques Blancpain (pronounced blon pa' - ) who first registered as a watchmaker in Villeret, Switzerland in 1735. The company still resides in Switzerland and is perhaps best known for its 1953 Fifty-Fathoms watch which was designed and produced in collaboration with the French Navy's elite scuba squad combat swimmers. 

As the world's oldest watchmaking brand, each model is steeped in history and is steppingstone to building an incredible legacy. In the early days of their operations, the Blancpain chose not to label their watches, opting instead to sell them without a trademark—a practice that was quite common in the Villeret region at the time. Unfortunately, this means that today we lack evidence of their work prior to 1800, with the exception of a Louis XVI pocket watch, which bears the inscription “Blancpain et fils” on its inner back. 

The original dive watch came with several specifications direct from the French combat swimmers including a locking timing bezel, so that dive times don't overextend; an auto-winding mechanism; and a leak warning system courtesy of a dot on the dial that would turn red if moisture was present which went on to become something of an iconic feature of the brand's watches. 

There are now over 70 watches in the Fifty Fathoms collection, with modern versions boasting in-house mechanical movements, relatively thin cases for the style of watch, silicon balance springs and unidirectional sapphire or ceramic timing bezels. 

Today, the brand remains a family love affair with over 200 years of passing down through the generations. It's this determination to continue to innovate and evolve, that sets Blancpain apart from the competition. 

Blancpain's Notable Collections 

Blancpain have been at the forefront of the luxury watch making industry for over 280 years. Such a deep and rich history has crafted a range of wonderful collections that showcase the innovation and artisanry honed at Blancpain. Below, I delve into what makes these watch collections so special and how you can begin to discover your perfect Blancpain watch.  

Blancpain Fity Fathoms 

Established in 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was by no means the first model crafted by the brand. But it is one of the most memorable.   

Launching the first modern divers watch, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms encapsulates the oceans fragile beauty. Created for professional divers, underwater photographers, and the French Navy's elite scuba squad combat swimmers. 

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a gorgeous timepieces featuring a sunburst dial  and 18ct red gold case and bezel. Ensuring durability the unidirectional bezel and open case back offers a unique view into the inner workings of such a masterpiece.

blancpain fifty fathoms mens watch blancpain fifty fathoms mens watch

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Mens Watch 

Blancpain Air Command 

Crafted for the United States Air Force, the Blancpain Air Command meets the demanding specifications of such skillful pilots. Drawing inspiration from the flagship collection, Fifty Fathoms, Blancpain shot from the ocean to the skies.  

This timepiece was provided to American military pilots via the distributor Allen V. Tornek, for whom Blancpain is believed to have crafted a dozen prototype watches. 

Standing as a beacon of success, theBlancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Automatic is a magnificent model. Offering two timekeeping settings, a flyack chronograph and a countdown bezel, this model is perfect for aviaition enthusiasts. The 36.2mm titanium case is elegantly housed within a bi-directional rotating titanium bezel, featuring a blue ceramic insert and Super-LumiNova® hour markers. Driven by an automatic movement and paired with a calfskin strap and folding clasp, this timepiece offers an unparalleled luxury experience. 

Over the years, the demand for Air Command has continued to dwindle, making it a coveted piece among watch connisseurs, Bringing a touch of the 1950’s, the Blancpain Air Command strikes loyalty and passion into the heart of the wearer.  

blancpain air command flyback chronograph automaticblancpain air command flyback chronograph automatic

Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Automatic

Blancpain Ladybird

Since 1930, Blancpain has been a trailblazer in the realm of women’s watches, introducing the first self-winding wristwatch for women, known as the Rolls. In 1956, the brand launched the Blancpain Ladybird, featuring the smallest round movement of its era.

 Believing that women value the craftsmanship and allure of mechanical watches, the Maison continually innovates by designing movements specifically for women, incorporating horological complications that were once exclusive to men’s timepieces. 

Indulge in history with the Blancpain Ladybird Colours Phases de Lune. A timepiece radiating feminine elegance while display masterful craftsmanship. A moonphase display paired with a diamond encrusted bezel offers a harmonious blend of opulence and horology.  

blancpain ladybird colours phases de lune blancpain ladybird colours phases de lune

Blancpain Ladybird Colors Phases de Lune

Blancpain Villeret 

The prestigious Fifty-Fathoms collection is far from being the only model of note from Blancpain. 

Another prominent collection from the brand is the Blancpain Villeret collection. Its name comes from the original birthplace of the watch where Jehan-Jacques first started his trade in Switzerland. Simple and elegant, it's been a staple of Blancpain since the 1980s. 

Showcasing the true skill housed in the walls of Blancpain workshops, the Blancpain Villeret Quantieme Complet wows with every tick. Featuring an impressive moonphase display, day and month display, all the while looking absolutely gorgeous. The case, crafted from 18ct gold and paired with a sunburst blue dial, exudes luxury. 

blancpain villeret quantieme complet blancpain villeret quantieme complet

Blancpain Villeret Quantieme Complet

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Blancpain: Always Innovating

For a company that has such a rich history, Blancpain certainly doesn't rest on its laurels, instead continually looking to innovate within the industry. As well as the first deep dive watch, its name is also synonymous with the first smallest watch movement and the first most-thin movement. It's famous the world over for its complicated mechanical watches“ the company has always maintained it has never, nor will it ever make a quartz watch. 
 
The launch of its Ladybird watch set a world record for being the smallest round watch in the world. With a Caliber R550 movement that measured just 11.85mm in diameter, it still had a power reserve of an impressive 40 hours. 
In 2012 it created a watch that was the first-ever to feature the Chinese traditional calendar: a historical moment in horological complication. Blancpain's Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel includes the zodiac signs, the current months, celestial stems and the phases of the moon“ as well as the minutes and hours as marked by the Gregorian calendar. 
 
The brand made history again in 2013 when it combined two methods of combating gravity on the watch's balance wheel in one timepiece. The 2013 Tourbillon Carrousel featured both tourbillon and carousel with each mechanism's gear train on display from the sapphire case back. 

Frequently Asked Questions 

Are Blancpain Watches Handmade? 

The small number of watches being made is not just about ensuring the brand remains coveted but is also to do with the process by which the watches are made. Blancpain makes less than 30 watches each day, with each watch being worked on tirelessly by a sole watchmaker. This is everything mass production is not. Each watch is assembled entirely by hand, this time-consuming task honouring the tradition of the craft of watchmaking. The finished product has been hand-crafted to perfection, with every element of the process is thoroughly checked and double-checked to ensure it meets the brand's high expectation for quality. 

This commitment to handcrafted quality demands absolute precision and a supreme level of dexterity from the watchmakers, who are tasked with working with some parts that can be as thin as a strand of hair.  


 Why Are Blancpain Watches So Expensive? 

When you purchase a Blancpain watch you can rest assured that your investment buys you hundreds of years of perfecting the art of watchmaking and a luxuriously stylish timepiece that will never age. These are watches that have been designed with generations of owners in mind. 
 

The price tag is all down to their precision hand-engineered design and their innovative mechanical engineering. The most expensive Blancpain watch to date remains the spcialits Tourbillon Diamonds Watch. A select few may be able to run to the $1,342,700 price tag but those that do can expect 20 carats worth of diamonds, a sapphire crystal back, a handmade calibre with automatic winding and a special flying tourbillon for a subsidiary second indicator. 
 
Yet despite this Blancpain watches hold their value well thanks to their stellar reputation, technical complications and exclusivity. The company is committed to creating classic watches to exceptional standards and pushing the boundaries of what they can achieve. The company produces fewer than 10,000 timepieces in all of its various collections globally making them true collectors' items.  


Do I Need To Do Regular Maintenance On My Watch? 

Once you've selected your Blancpain watch, following a few simple recommendations will ensure your timepiece remains an instrument of high precision and beauty. Manually wound watches should be wound daily, preferably in the morning. If your watch is automatic and is not worn regularly then it should be wound once a month.  


When faced with a watch purchasing decision it's no surprise that Blancpain features in many shortlists“ the Blancpain brand is a mark of quality. There is no doubting its pedigree, its devotion to always driving watchmaking forwards and to turning out innovation after innovation to secure its reputation as one of the best luxurious watchmakers of the 21st century. Simply, the brand delivers exceptional watches for true connoisseurs. 


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