Grand Seiko Watches and Wonders 2024: Where Mastery Meets Nature
- 10 Apr 2024
Longines is renowned in the luxury watch industry for excellent timepiece accuracy and high-quality craftsmanship. Here's what you should know before you buy.
A brief history of Longines Watches
Derived from the Swiss Les Longines meaning long meadows, Longines pays homage to the first factory site built in Switzerland in 1867 to manufacture the luxury watches we know today.
The Longines brand started in 1832 when Auguste Agassiz and his two partners established the Saint-Imier establishment to make and sell pocket watches. After becoming head of the company and the watches finding success in the United States, Agassiz took on his nephew, Ernest Francillon, to run the company. Here, Francillon worked on ways to improve the manufacturing methods in watchmaking.
While under Agassiz, the brand used common procedures used in watchmaking whereby watchmakers would work at home and supply their products to the trading offices. However, Francillon wondered about how the industrial revolution would impact the manufacturing process so he decided to take all the different stages of watchmaking and bring them all under one roof.
To achieve this, Francillon bought two adjoining pieces of land in 1866 and built his factory which was completed a year later. The factory was built on the bank of the River Suze, known locally as Les Longines', meaning long meadows, and so Francillon adopted this name for his factory.
Francillon then took on Jacques David who helped develop the machines required for perfecting watch manufacturing. Because of his innovation and industrial thinking, Francillion continually expanded the factory until the early 20th Century.
The research into technology at Longines rewarded them with various prizes, the first of which was awarded at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867 for its first pocket watch product - the 20A. Throughout the brand's history, technical research has allowed Longines to produce high-precision timekeeping and quality manufacturing.
Due to its precise timekeeping reputation, Longines is the official timekeeper in many sports, including equestrian, horse-racing, Formula 1, alpine skiing competitions and gymnastic competitions. To this day, Longines continues to be a reliable and precise timekeeping brand, not only for sports but for all the masses.
Who owns the Longines brand today?
Longines has been a subsidiary of the Swiss Swatch Group, formerly Socit Suisse de Microlectronique et d'Horlogerie (SMH), since 1983. Founded by Nicholas G Hayek, the Swiss Swatch Group is the world watchmaking leader, with other brands such as ETA, Omega, Harry Winston, Hamilton and more under the company.
The current president of Longines is Matthias Breschan who has previously worked for the Swatch Group sister brands, Hamilton and Rado, for a number of years.
Where are Longines items produced now?
Longines watches are still being made in Switzerland, St-Imier, where they were first produced and have remained there since. They are the only watchmaker to have stayed in their original hometown to this day.
What is in the Longines range?
Longines continues to produce one of the most precise timekeeping watches in the world, but their range also includes sunglasses and straps for watches. The Longines tradition of keeping to quality is evident with their ability to provide original straps for watches so you can keep the authentic look of your watch or you can customise it to your preference.
In 2019, Longines began designing, producing and distributing the new optical and sun eyewear range for men and women. This new range embodies the brand's aesthetic and technological know-how to provide exquisite products. The optical and sunglasses range was developed in compliance with the strictest quality requirements and meticulous attention to detail, much like the production of its watches.
Where can I buy Longines products?
Longines products are widely available both online and in-store“ thanks to the company's selected network of retailers. You can find approved retailers in your country that sell authentic Longines products on their websites. Select countries can also purchase from Longines' online stores. At Chisholm Hunter, we stock a wide range of official Longines products including the high-performance HydroConquest for professional divers; the exquisite La Grande Classique collection; the classically authentic Master collection and the impeccable design of the Spirit watches.
How much do Longines products cost?
As with any luxury watch line, prices are on the higher end however, in relation to the rest of the watch industry, Longine places itself as a more attainable and affordable luxury brand compared to its pricier competitors.
Many high street retailers will have Longines products starting from around the £600 mark for the Conquest or La Grande Classique collections and up to several thousands of pounds for collections with more advanced technology and design.
The technical precision and high-quality build of Longines watches coupled with its devotion to tradition and research have helped place the company as the successful luxury brand it is today.
How can I tell if a Longines product is genuine?
Many Longines watches have very small numbers and markings printed on the dial below the number 6. These small markings show the movement number and plate number, which you'll need a magnifying glass to see. Counterfeit Longines watches usually don't have these markings but the ones that do are often done improperly, with defects and have more scratches on the dial surface.
Another way to find out if your Longines watch is genuine is to check the back of the watch case. A genuine Longines watch will be engraved with the watch brand name, the name of the country the watch was manufactured in and special trademark patterns for the watch brand. An authentic Longines watch case is fine and exquisite with a high finish and consistent assembly. A counterfeit watch will have a rough and imprecise watch case. Usually, letters are engraved on the open position of the case to show the amount of gold plating but counterfeit products will not have this mark. You can also check for the authenticity of your watch by going directly to Longines. Since 1867, Longines has kept a record of every single serial number of its watches so you can receive detailed information about your watch and a certificate of authenticity if it is genuine. Longines serial numbers are found engraved on the back of the watch case and are 5 to 8 digits long. In some cases, the serial number may be found on the movement or inside the watch so you may have to remove the case to see it.
Where can I get my Longines watch appraised?
If you'd like to get an appraisal of your Longines products then look for a local jeweller or watchmaker who offers a valuation service.
Older pieces that are in excellent condition will hold their value the best and holding on to pieces that have complicated mechanical workings will give you the highest resale price.
How do I wear my Longines watch?
The beauty of the Longines collection is that a single watch is enough to lift any outfit. Each of the Longines collections will match the occasion, day and outfit. For formal events, many of the Longines collections provide the simple, minimalistic and elegant watch you need to match your outfit.
For casual wearing, you can wear a watch from any of the collections and match it to your outfit, ensuring your arms have the right amount of luxury with elegant dials, gold or silver accents and a classic strap to elevate your look.
How to clean a Longines watch?
Longines watches have been designed to be durable but once in a while, they can require some cleaning to maintain their sharp and elegant look. It's recommended to use a toothbrush and soapy water to clean the metal bracelets and waterproof casings. Then, rinse with clean water and dry with a soft cloth. Your Longines watch should be looking as good as new.
Think a Longines watch could be for you? Take a look at their collection here today.
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While slightly newer to the world of refined watchmaking, Grand Seiko comes from a history of Japanese excellence. Delving to find the perfect balance between honouring tradition and building a future, Grand Seiko is a brand of cultivation, precision, and above all else, reliability.
At Watches and Wonders, Geneva, I was privy to some of the most insane releases in watch making history and there are a few Grand Seiko watches that deserve a special mention. Let’s get into it!
Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion: Morning Glow of Hotaka Peaks
First up is the Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion: Morning Glow of Hotaka Peaks. Grand Seiko are known for bringing a sense of home to their pieces. From the limited-edition Pink Snowflake Spring Drive 20th Anniversary watch, inspired by the rosy winter morning glow of sunrise over the majestic Hotaka mountain peaks or the Sea of Clouds Hi-Beat GMT Watch, taking grand inspiration from the way the clouds flow over the sun at daybreak.
The Grand Seiko Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition watch brings honour to the morning glow that is set by the deep sun as it rises over the Hotaka Mountains. The birthplace of Grand Seiko and where all GS watches are manufactured today.
Showcasing the values of Grand Seiko, the Tokyo Lion model is defined by its lion mane case and claw-like hairline-finished lugs for a prudent contrast. Bringing everything together is the 18k gold Grand Seiko lion emblem engraved onto the oscillating weight of the movements.
Powered by the iconic Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Calibre 9R96, a new movement created for such a momentous occasion, this watch is extremely precise at just ±10 seconds per month.
The Grand Seiko Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition watch is a masterpiece of Japanese Zaratsu. Showcasing pure brilliance, from the curved lugs for comfort to the gorgeous red dial. This Grand Seiko watch is a real sight to behold.
Grand Seiko Sport Collection 20th Anniversary Limited Edition Mens Watch
Grand Seiko Genbi Valley: An Enigmatic Landscape
As part of the Evolution 9 collection, the Grand Seiko Genbi Valley watch unveils a meticulously crafted textured mint green dial—an homage to the captivating Genbi Valley near the Grand Seiko Shizukuishi Studio. Drawing inspiration from the lush vegetation lining the Iwai River, this fresh design pays tribute to the vibrant life and natural splendour of Iwate Prefecture.
Green has seen everything this year at Watches and Wonders and its not hard to wonder why. With so many tones and hues, green is a versatile colour that can bring any watch to life. And with Grand Seiko offering a lighter, more refreshing shade, paired with the slight texturing, you get a feel of what life is like along the banks of the Iwai River.
Extending the Evolution 9 line, the Grand Seiko Genbi Valley is powered by the “best Grand Seiko movement ever created," the 9SA5 calibre. An automatic in-house movement can be seen through the glass box sapphire crystal case back.
With an 80-hour power reserve, the automated Hi-Beat movement runs at a frequency of 36,000 volts per hour. The calibre averages +5 to -3 seconds per day in terms of precision. In addition, Grand Seiko designed a free-sprung balance specifically for this calibre, together with the brand's Dual Impulse Escapement.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Hi-Beat 36000 Limited Edition Men's Watch
Grand Seiko Starry Night: A Celestial Harmony
Now, when it comes to pleasing a crowd, the Grand Seiko Starry Night excels. Inspired by the truly iconic Van Gogh ‘Starry Night’ painting, the Grand Seiko watch is nothing short of history making.
Echoing the first Grand Seiko watch from the 1960’s, this Grand Seiko 2024 model is dignified with a night sky clue, 18k rose gold case and indexes, and a luxurious matching crocodile strap.
The navy-blue contrast against the rich rose gold makes this watch a beauty that the eye simply cannot ignore. And as a limited-edition watch, getting your hands on it may be harder than you think.
Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Starry Night Limited Edition Mens Watch
Grand Seiko Snow Valley: Inspired by Nature
Inspired by the height of summer experienced in the Japanese mountains, the Grand Seiko ‘Sekkei’ Snow Valley is a soothing blend of all things spring. “Sekkei” meaning “Snow Valley” is thought to have been conceptualised by the emotions evoked as lush green tones begin to peak through the white snow of winter.
A textured, off white (snow looking) dial is paired with a green and white two-tone bezel. The stainless-steel clasp offers a comfortable fit on the wrist, while the three-fold clasp with push button release makes installation a breeze.
At the heart of the Grand Seiko Snow Valley is the 9S86 Calibre which provides up to 55 hours of power reserve and unmatched accuracy. The day and night division on this watch is not set at 6am to 6pm for a solid divide but rather 6:30am to 5:30pm, a small yet transformative detail that makes this timepiece a personal favourite.
Grand Seiko Sport Collection Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 GMT Mens Watch
Overall, Grand Seiko released some incredible models this year. From nature inspired dials to nods of famous artwork, Grand Seiko aimed to wow, and wow they did. There are a few other watches that I didn't get the chance to explore in this review, but trust me, they are just as magnificent as the ones above.
Think Grand Seiko could be the one for you? Take a look at our new arrivals here today!
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