Baume & Mercier Watch Buying Guide

26 Jul 2024

Longines is renowned in the luxury watch industry for excellent timepiece accuracy and high-quality craftsmanship. Here's what you should know before you buy.

A brief history of Longines Watches

Derived from the Swiss Les Longines meaning long meadows, Longines pays homage to the first factory site built in Switzerland in 1867 to manufacture the luxury watches we know today.

The Longines brand started in 1832 when Auguste Agassiz and his two partners established the Saint-Imier establishment to make and sell pocket watches. After becoming head of the company and the watches finding success in the United States, Agassiz took on his nephew, Ernest Francillon, to run the company. Here, Francillon worked on ways to improve the manufacturing methods in watchmaking.

While under Agassiz, the brand used common procedures used in watchmaking whereby watchmakers would work at home and supply their products to the trading offices. However, Francillon wondered about how the industrial revolution would impact the manufacturing process so he decided to take all the different stages of watchmaking and bring them all under one roof.

To achieve this, Francillon bought two adjoining pieces of land in 1866 and built his factory which was completed a year later. The factory was built on the bank of the River Suze, known locally as Les Longines', meaning long meadows, and so Francillon adopted this name for his factory.

Francillon then took on Jacques David who helped develop the machines required for perfecting watch manufacturing. Because of his innovation and industrial thinking, Francillion continually expanded the factory until the early 20th Century.

The research into technology at Longines rewarded them with various prizes, the first of which was awarded at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867 for its first pocket watch product - the 20A. Throughout the brand's history, technical research has allowed Longines to produce high-precision timekeeping and quality manufacturing.

Due to its precise timekeeping reputation, Longines is the official timekeeper in many sports, including equestrian, horse-racing, Formula 1, alpine skiing competitions and gymnastic competitions. To this day, Longines continues to be a reliable and precise timekeeping brand, not only for sports but for all the masses.

Who owns the Longines brand today?

Longines has been a subsidiary of the Swiss Swatch Group, formerly Socit Suisse de Microlectronique et d'Horlogerie (SMH), since 1983. Founded by Nicholas G Hayek, the Swiss Swatch Group is the world watchmaking leader, with other brands such as ETA, Omega, Harry Winston, Hamilton and more under the company.

The current president of Longines is Matthias Breschan who has previously worked for the Swatch Group sister brands, Hamilton and Rado, for a number of years.

Where are Longines items produced now?

Longines watches are still being made in Switzerland, St-Imier, where they were first produced and have remained there since. They are the only watchmaker to have stayed in their original hometown to this day.

What is in the Longines range?

Longines continues to produce one of the most precise timekeeping watches in the world, but their range also includes sunglasses and straps for watches. The Longines tradition of keeping to quality is evident with their ability to provide original straps for watches so you can keep the authentic look of your watch or you can customise it to your preference.

In 2019, Longines began designing, producing and distributing the new optical and sun eyewear range for men and women. This new range embodies the brand's aesthetic and technological know-how to provide exquisite products. The optical and sunglasses range was developed in compliance with the strictest quality requirements and meticulous attention to detail, much like the production of its watches.

Where can I buy Longines products?

Longines products are widely available both online and in-store“ thanks to the company's selected network of retailers. You can find approved retailers in your country that sell authentic Longines products on their websites. Select countries can also purchase from Longines' online stores. At Chisholm Hunter, we stock a wide range of official Longines products including the high-performance HydroConquest for professional divers; the exquisite La Grande Classique collection; the classically authentic Master collection and the impeccable design of the Spirit watches.

How much do Longines products cost?

As with any luxury watch line, prices are on the higher end however, in relation to the rest of the watch industry, Longine places itself as a more attainable and affordable luxury brand compared to its pricier competitors.

Many high street retailers will have Longines products starting from around the £600 mark for the Conquest or La Grande Classique collections and up to several thousands of pounds for collections with more advanced technology and design.

The technical precision and high-quality build of Longines watches coupled with its devotion to tradition and research have helped place the company as the successful luxury brand it is today.

How can I tell if a Longines product is genuine?

Many Longines watches have very small numbers and markings printed on the dial below the number 6. These small markings show the movement number and plate number, which you'll need a magnifying glass to see. Counterfeit Longines watches usually don't have these markings but the ones that do are often done improperly, with defects and have more scratches on the dial surface.

Another way to find out if your Longines watch is genuine is to check the back of the watch case. A genuine Longines watch will be engraved with the watch brand name, the name of the country the watch was manufactured in and special trademark patterns for the watch brand. An authentic Longines watch case is fine and exquisite with a high finish and consistent assembly. A counterfeit watch will have a rough and imprecise watch case. Usually, letters are engraved on the open position of the case to show the amount of gold plating but counterfeit products will not have this mark. You can also check for the authenticity of your watch by going directly to Longines. Since 1867, Longines has kept a record of every single serial number of its watches so you can receive detailed information about your watch and a certificate of authenticity if it is genuine. Longines serial numbers are found engraved on the back of the watch case and are 5 to 8 digits long. In some cases, the serial number may be found on the movement or inside the watch so you may have to remove the case to see it.

Where can I get my Longines watch appraised?

If you'd like to get an appraisal of your Longines products then look for a local jeweller or watchmaker who offers a valuation service.

Older pieces that are in excellent condition will hold their value the best and holding on to pieces that have complicated mechanical workings will give you the highest resale price.

How do I wear my Longines watch?

The beauty of the Longines collection is that a single watch is enough to lift any outfit. Each of the Longines collections will match the occasion, day and outfit. For formal events, many of the Longines collections provide the simple, minimalistic and elegant watch you need to match your outfit.

For casual wearing, you can wear a watch from any of the collections and match it to your outfit, ensuring your arms have the right amount of luxury with elegant dials, gold or silver accents and a classic strap to elevate your look.

How to clean a Longines watch?

Longines watches have been designed to be durable but once in a while, they can require some cleaning to maintain their sharp and elegant look. It's recommended to use a toothbrush and soapy water to clean the metal bracelets and waterproof casings. Then, rinse with clean water and dry with a soft cloth. Your Longines watch should be looking as good as new.

Think a Longines watch could be for you? Take a look at their collection here today.

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STORY

Although Baume & Mercier were officially named in 1918, the company can trace its roots back to 1830 in the Swiss Jura mountains, making it one of the longest established Swiss watchmakers. Proving to only accept perfection, I divulge all of the incredible details of the watchmakers' past and their most exquisite creations in this Baume & Mercier watch buying guide.

A Brief History of Baume & Mercier

In the serene mountains of Les Bois, Swiss Jura, brothers Louis-Victor Baume and Pierre-Joseph Celestine Baume began their pocket watch dealership in 1830. Known as “Freres Baue” (Baume Brothers), the dealership continued to grow in reputation as a provider of exquisite timepieces for an affordable price.

The brothers quickly expanded their business to the bustling epicenter of London, England and then around the world in Australia, New Zealand, and Singapore. The brothers stayed true to their word and carved a reputation for creating luxury watches using the latest innovative watch-making techniques.

As the 19th century drew to a close, Baume and Mercier began creating their own complications including chronographs, calendars, tourbillons, and minute repeater. Going on to win prestigious awards including a gold medal at London's Kew Observatory in 1892 for a tourbillon-equipped chronometer pocket watch. A title they shall hold for the next decade.

Quote : "Accept only perfection. Only manufacture watches of the highest quality." - Baume Brothers

With the turn of the century, the brand adapted to the rise of the wristwatch and continued to remain a renowned producer of high-quality watches throughout the first and second world war with third generation watchmaker, Williame Baume. William would go on to partner with Russian watchmaker, Paul Tchereditchenko, or now known as Paul Mercier, to create the masterpiece that we know as Baume & Mercier in 1918.

Just a year later in 1919 Baume & Mercier was awarded the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark – the highest international distinction of the time. Baume & Mercier led the way in developing uniquely shaped watch cases and precision movements, while also broadening its global distribution network.

Baume & Mercier’s Iconic Collections

The watchmakers at Baume & Mercier are empowered to explore their artistic creativity which has resulted in some of the brand’s most iconic designs.

Baume & Mercier Classima

As the world focused on round wristwatches, Baume & Mercier were being creative in their workshops. Designing and constructing a diverse collection of timepieces that exude sophistication and individuality. The Baume & Mercier Classima embodies simple timeless designs and discreet elegance to create a versatile range of sizes, colourways, and complications.

The Baume & Mercier Classima Chronos is a gorgeous display of refined luxury. He classic round case featuring a day date calendar display, triple sub dials, and automatic movement. This is the perfect timepiece for any gentleman's collection.

Baume & Mercier Classima Chronos

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Baume & Mercier Riviera

The 1973 Riviera model was one of the world’s first steel sports watches. The Baume & Mercier engineers famously tested its durability by mounting one to the wheels of a BMW race car to see how it coped with 24 hours at Le Mans.

In the same decade, it brought out the Stardust model which was awarded the Golden Rose of Baden-Baden, a prestigious international award. In 2021 the Riviera watch was revived for its fifth generation. It celebrates everything about this much-loved model and updates it for the next generation of customers.

The Baume & Mercier Riviera Automatic exudes precisions, sophistication, and rugged masculinity. The all-stainless steel body paired with the automatic movement are designed for living life in the fast lane.

Baume & Mercier Riviera Automatic

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Baume & Mercier Clifton

The Clifton’s more complicated denizens, from chronographs to complete calendars, had been equipped with outsourced ETA movements up until relatively recently, when Baume & Mercier began using the aforementioned Baumatic caliber as a base for adding complications via modules.

Baume & Mercier Clifton showcases the depth of the brands knowledge when it comes to complications and movements. The Baume & Mercier Clifton Automatic Moon Phase harnesses one of the worlds most complicated movements. With a gorgeous sunburst dial and a moonphase disc, this automatic watch indulges every watch enthusiasts' dreams.

Baume & Mercier Clifton Automatic Moon Phase

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Baume & Mercier Hampton

Unveiled in the 1940s’ the Baume & Mercier Hampton unleashes the thrill of Art Deco design. The signature rectangular case, the collection was relaunched in 2012 and has remained a cornerstone in ladies watches. Designed to exude retro charm and appeal to both men and women, Hampton watches come in various case sizes. Many of the larger models feature automatic movements housed within their curvilinear, multifaceted cases.

The Baume & Mercier Hampton is characterised by feminine, rectangular dials with luxurious touches. The selection of stainless steel or leather bracelets. The sparkling diamonds are a marker of the opulence at the core of Baume & Mercier.

Baume & Mercier Hampton

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Frequently Asked Questions

Are Baume & Mercier watches good value?

Despite the company’s ethos on quality Baume & Mercier still manufacture surprisingly affordable timepieces. Under its My Classima collection, first launched in 2016, it offers timeless, elegant styles that can be picked up for under £1,000.

Thanks to its Swiss heritage and expertise in watchmaking, Baume & Mercier do retain their value and remain highly collectable. In particular vintage watches from the 1920s period are especially in demand.

How can I date my Baume and Mercier watch?

You’ll be able to date your Baume & Mercier watch by the name and model number. This information can be found on your watch’s original documents. If you look on the back of your watch you will also find reference numbers: look for four or five digits that may be preceded by MVO in some cases.

With this information you should be able to determine your watch’s vintage and also access user manuals online should you need them.

How do I replace my Baume and Mercier watch batteries?

Battery life will depend on the watch model but expect your watch batteries to last anywhere from three to six years. The Baume & Mercier quartz watches with central seconds hand feature a system to alert users to a low battery. If you notice the central second hand begins to jump every four seconds it’s signalling to you that the battery has around two weeks before the battery expires.

Once you realise your battery needs replacing it’s important to get it changed as soon as possible, to leave an exhausted battery in your watch could lead to leakage which would damage the movement.

After Sales Care

Such high precision instruments require regular and thorough servicing to ensure they continue to maintain accurate timekeeping. The experts at Baume & Mercier advise that if your watch is water-resistant it should undertake a water-resistance check yearly.

The majority of Baume & Mercier watches are water-resistant up to at least 30 metres. Check the back of your watch, where you can find information indicating whether its water-resistance goes beyond this.

A complete service should be carried out every three to five years, depending on how heavily the watch is used. Every new Baume & Mercier watch comes with a two-year guarantee.

You can give your watch a gentle clean periodically if you have a water-resistant model. Before doing so always make sure the crown is tightly closed – either pressed down or screwed down. Use a soft toothbrush with warm soapy water to gently buff the watch. Rinse with fresh water and dry with a soft cloth.

Today the watchmaker’s expertise is based around the principle of ‘établissage’ – a coveted standard in the world of watchmaking. It means every step of the watches’ creation is controlled in-house, along with the assembly of its various components, to guarantee the very finest quality. Headquartered in Geneva and with workshops in Swiss Jura, Baume & Mercier's watch production is centralised in Switzerland. Its time-honoured combination of respecting traditional watchmaking methods, focusing on superior quality and readiness to continue to push the boundaries through innovation means it attracts the very best talent to retain its position of expertise. Explore the creations of Baume & Mercier and uncover the world of incredible horology.